Yes We Are In Bulgaria

We have made it safely to Bulgaria. For those of you who did not know, we are here for two months as Rachel does field work at the Tabachka Bat Research Station. Most of you knew that already, but in case you didn't, now you do. Actually, we've been here for a whole month now, so I suppose we've survived that much too. Life here has been extremely busy, leaving little time for posting to the blog. Our apologies. The next several posts will be an attempt to catch up. To give a sense of our busy lives, I'm going to cut a corner and post here the text from an e-mail I recently wrote to Rachel's mom:

Rachel's work has been very busy, with Björn here and the flow rate of bats in and out of the station very high. Which in turn means I'm very busy on Gwen Wren duty. And then, to boot, the Internet has been down for the last 2 days. With no Internet we have really been wondering about Max, hoping we weren't missing The Announcement. Besides that, though, things are good. The station is very full--beyond capacity, actually, with Björn sleeping in Ivo's room, along with Ivo's girlfriend Toni (Toni in Ivo's bed, that is, Björn in a separate bed), and Stefan sleeping in the bat-observation chamber on an air mattress. There are lots of bats, which means everybody is staying up all night trying to get their experiments done while the bats are available, then sleeping much of the day. Lots of meetings about coordinating things, timing who has bats or equipment when, etc. Nice big dinners with a packed table and Bulgarian wine. This is the nicest time, when things slow down a bit and everyone is together. A typical schedule is like this:

Noon, wake up. Breakfast prepared by Lelya Stevka and waiting for us. Coffee, homemade juice or tea from herbs in the garden, fresh homemade bread with cheese, cucumbers and tomatoes, often a soup.
1 PM After breakfast, Rachel gives Wren a bath in the yard. Lelya Stevka has left water out in a tub all morning so it is warm. After the bath, Wren crawls around naked in the grass while she dries. Usu. lots of pictures taken around this point.
2 PM Wren is ready for a nap. Rachel goes to the station and I rock and sing Wren to sleep (no milk required now).
4 PM Wren wakes up and we walk up to the station. Everybody else is just waking up. Often, there are lots of people hanging out in the garden, so they watch and play with Wren while Rachel and I have a slight break and can at least glance at our e-mail. Some afternoons I stay at home with Wren until she takes a second nap. Other times, we go on an outing like going for a walk or visiting a rock church nearby. Or go to Ruse to buy groceries and random supplies.
7 PM Dinner prep starts. Often Rachel or I or both help.
9 PM Dinner. About half the time, this is Bulgarian food--e.g. bell peppers stuffed with meat, cold cucumber soup with yogurt and garlic, ALWAYS the same salad: cucumbers, tomatoes, white Bulgarian cheese, oil and vinegar. Before Björn arrived, when Stefan and Mango were calling many of the shots, we would sometimes watch The Family Guy during dinner. Now it's conversation. Either way, as soon as everyone is done, there is a sudden shift into high gear.
~10 PM Everyone racing around getting their equipment together. Some people going out to catch bats in caves. Some doing experiments in the flight room. Some starting the feeding of bats already in captivity (which takes several hours each night). I often do dishes at this point. Rachel sometimes tries to put Wren to sleep upstairs, either in the portable crib (aka Pack-N-Play) or in somebody's empty bed.
~11 PM If Wren is alseep, I might stay and work on my computer or help Rachel and Patty get their work started. If not, Rachel and I might go home to put her to bed, then Rachel return to the station. Or do this a bit later. By 1 AM I am usually home with Wren and Wren is solidly asleep.
~4-7 AM Rachel returns home to sleep.
Repeat.

On the whole, it's a rather strange life here, but with many nice elements. That said, I too am looking forward to being in New Hampshire. Back in the States period. I am getting desperate for a good cheeseburger. I've already got a place in mind in Boston. But then to be in Chocorua, sleeping on the sleeping porch, walks with Tulip, perhaps canoeing with Wren(?). I bet Wren will be walking a bit by then. All the wonderful grassy, mossy lawn around Crowlands will be great for her. Licks from Tulip too.

I know some of our readers--perhaps better called "viewers"--will not be satiated without some photos, so here are a few.

Rachel and Wren at the Tabachka sign

The Station

Wall on the side of the station's storage room. This kind of "makeshift and crumbling" look is typical for the town (and much of Bulgaria in general).

This car is a landmark marking the turn on the way to Leyla Stevka's house, where we are staying. I don't think the car is going anywhere soon.

Rachel and Wren on "The Plateau"--an exposed ridge a short walk from the station.

View from The Plateau.

Gate to Leyla Stevka's house.

Leyla Stevka's house.

Gwen Wren on the lawn at Leyla Stevka's.

Our hosts: Simeon (Leyla Stevka's husband), Leyla Stevka, and Ivo (the station manager).

Leyla Stevka's magnificent garden.

Wren and I in the doorway to our flat.

Typical breakfast at Leyla Stevka's.

Typical dinner at the station, in the early days. From left to right: Gwen Wren, Stefan, (me), Mango, Ivo. Not pictured: Rachel (taking the picture), The Family Guy (on the computer screen).