A New Year in an Old City

Our first night in Venice was New Years Eve. We were a bit tired from a long day on the train, but we managed to go out for a nice dinner, including some good Italian wine, and culminating in a fabulous homemade Tiramisu. The streets were crazy with people and firecrackers, so we decided to return home instead of following the crowds to the big party on the Piazza San Marco. We were glad we did--we had a perfect view of the fireworks over the rooftops! (Unfortunately, no good pictures though.)

When we awoke the next morning, that same view had been dramatically transformed. There was now a blanket of snow and silence all across the city.

Gwen Wren was well-rested and ready for her first full day in Venice. Rachel insisted I mention that the big blue lump in the foreground is me, under the covers, trying to get in a few more minutes of sleep.

Each morning, we had a simple but tasty and plentiful breakfast at our hotel. On this first morning, Gwendolyn wanted to read up on the day's sightseeing while Rachel ate a very buttery and very delicious croissant.

We decided to start the day with a long vaporetto ride, to get an overview of the city. Gwen Wren LOVED riding on the boat. I suspect it had less to do with the scenery or the mode of transport than the many friendly Italians making faces and cooing at her. I must say, the Italians were very open and outgoing, especially toward The Wren. I decided to try imitating her expressions to see if I could get some of the same kind of attention.

Unfortuately, I think I come across more like a crazy person than she does.

By midday, the snow had melted off, and a gentle rain was falling. We got off the boat to explore on foot.

Gwen Wren decided it was time for a nap. Actually, she did a lot of napping over the next few days as we carried her around Venice. I don't blame her, either. The volume of Renaissance art and architecture was staggering to the point of making my right brain totally numb.

She napped on the Piazza San Marco.

She napped on the Basilica di San Marco.

Most days, in the afternoons, Gwen Wren liked to hang out in cafes.

At one such cafe, Gwendolyn made a new discovery in the field of spoonlogy. She found that she could make a loud ringing noise by banging a spoon against an aluminum water bottle. When other people in the cafe turned around to look, she would look give them an innocent, winning look like this one.

At the end of our first day, we caught a glimpse of sunset on the waterfront.

By the end of the second day, the skies had cleared completely. I call this shot "Venus over Venice." (Venus is a tiny white dot to the lower right of the moon. It shows up better if you click through to the larger version.)

Each evening after nightfall, we would find a restaurant for dinner. The trick was to find a place where the locals actually ate too (yes, there are locals in Venice, though they are perhaps outnumbered by the tourists).

At our favorite find, the restaurant owner offered Gwen Wren a clamp-on high chair--her first time in a high chair! She seemed a bit unsure at first.

But after a couple of minutes--and several smiles and coos from the waitstaff and various Italian passersby--she became quite pleased with her new perch.

In all, our time in Venice was fun, educational, invigorating, and for at least one of us, also quite restful. It was a great trip, and a New Years to remember.